Bâtard

The chef, Markus Glocker, is Austrian, it’s true, but depending on the season and on the chef’s mood, you will find the the prix fixe menu at Drew Nieporent’s elegant, Michelin-approved Tribeca establishment peppered with numerous elevated renditions of French classics, like steak tartare, braised porcelet shoulder, and numerous tarts for dessert. It’s not the kind of traditional, restaurateur-chef collaboration that you see much anymore in this increasingly transient dining town. And at $95 (or thereabouts) for four courses, you won’t find a better gourmet deal in the city. There’s no corkage fee on the first bottle you bring through the door, and if you have the funds, Nieporent’s collection of Burgundies remains as impressive as ever.